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Ulysse Collin-smagning på Atelier 33 d. 19/01/2023

Unik smagning – kun 9 pladser til salg (få tilbage)

Vi har opskriften på den perfekte torsdag aften i mørke januar:

Intet mindre end en komplet smagning af Ulysse Collins portefølje (6 forskellige cuvéer) suppleret med topcuvéer fra de to stjerneskud Jeaunaux-Robin og Barrat-Masson fra samme region som Ulysse Collin. Til store champagner hører god mad og smagningen akkompagneres derfor af snacks og en afstemt 4-retters menu fra ‘Danmarks Bedste Bistro 2022’, Atelier 33.

Ulysse Collin er efter vores opfattelse noget af det største champagne overhovedet. Det er der desværre også mange andre som synes og priserne er derfor røget i vejret og allokationerne i bund. 

Smagningen kommer til at foregå hos vores venner på Atelier 33 (M. P. Bruuns Gade 33, 8000 Aarhus) kl. 18.00 d. 19. januar 2023.

Læs mere om det specifikke smageprogram i nedenstående.

3.000,00 kr.

Ikke på lager

Ikke på lager

Aftenens smageprogram og anmeldelser af de specifikke champagner:

Jeaunaux-Robin Les Marnes Blanches 2018

“Fadgæret chardonnay i brugte bourgognefade og usødet fra Le Coteau du Petit Morin i det meget lidt kendte Talus Saint Prix lidt sydvest for det sydligste Côte des Blancs. Degorgeret i september 2021 og derfor må der ikke stå årgang på frontetiketten. Tanken er: kort bærmekontakt for maksimalt terroirudtryk og den er jeg med på. Æbler og gær, surdej og krudtet chablis’k næse, chablis med bobler, udtalt frugtig stil med skarphed, salt og syre. Fadet titter frem i eftersmagen – naturlig, ja vildt naturlig sødme i eftersmagen, men uden restsukkerfornemmelse. 94 point.” – René Langdahl

Barrat-Masson Les Margannes 2017

“Ren chardonnay og ingen dosage, gæret og lagret på egetræsfade og ren årgang 2017 degorgeret januar i år. Støvet og røget citron, mineralsk så det basker og gnistrer og knitrer i munden. Let oxidativ fra fadgæringen med nellike og kanel fra let brugt egetræ. Rugbrød i eftersmagen og sødlig fra supermoden frugt, selvsagt ikke dosage, rig og cremet og sødmefuld eftersmag. Fremragende. 94 point.” – René Langdahl

Ulysse Collin Les Perrieres 2015-base (48 mdr. sur lattes)

“Collin elected to retain some 4,000 bottles of the NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2015) for additional maturation on the lees, disgorging them after 48 months in March 2020 with the usual 1.7 grams per liter dosage. Mingling aromas of citrus oil, fresh bread, macadamia nuts, crushed chalk and white flowers, it’s full-bodied, multidimensional and tightly wound, with a deep and layered mid-palate, racy acids and a long, intensely chalky finish. As usual, it’s the most chiseled, mineral wine in the range, but the additional time on lees has given the wine another dimension. 97 points.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Ulysse Collin Les Enfers 2016-base (48 mdr. sur lattes)

Collin’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2016) unwinds in the glass with complex aromas of crisp Anjou pear and stone fruits mingled with pastry cream, toasted almonds and white flowers. Full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it’s deep and complete, with racy acids, terrific texture and unerring precision. While my allegiance varies between Les Enfers and Les Roises, depending on the year and the disgorgement, in 2016 it’s impossible to choose: both wines are benchmarks for contemporary Champagne. 99 points.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Ulysse Collin Les Roises 2014 (48 mdr. sur lattes)

“The NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2014) is based on the 2014 vintage, supplemented by 10% of reserve wines from 2013, and it was disgorged with 2.4 grams per liter dosage in March 2020. Exhibiting aromas of warm bread, Asian pear, orange oil, peach and praline, it’s full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with huge depth and amplitude, its concentrated core of fruit framed by racy acids and chalky structure, concluding with a long, intensely saline finish. It’s almost impossible to choose between these two cuvées of Les Roises and Les Enfers, and readers who share my admiration for these vinous, intensely flavored Champagnes should spare no efforts to acquire whatever they can of either bottling. 99 points.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Ulysse Collin Les Jardin d’Ulysse

“Based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by 10% reserve wines and disgorged this year after 60 months on the lees, Collin’s NV Extra-Brut Les Jardin d’Ulysse (2016) represents the second iteration of this new cuvée. Unwinding in the glass with notions of citrus oil, crisp green apple, mirabelle plum, pastry cream and nutmeg, it’s medium to full-bodied, racy and tightly wound, with terrific concentration and chalky structure, girdled by incisive acids, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. After having produced mono-cépage bottlings from terroir with more or less uniform expositions, the Jardin d’Ulysse is a complete departure from that formula, blending Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, and deriving from a site some 70% of which is oriented north, the rest south. This cuvée really needs a year on cork to start to show all its cards, and Collin is considering extending its time en tirage to 72 months to see what additional potential can be unleashed. 96+ points.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Jeaunaux-Robin Instinct Meunier 2018

“Også ren 2018, men tiden på bærmen er for kort til lovlig årgangsangivelse. Ren meunier fra le Grand Morceau-parcellen lige ved siden af vineriet. Fadgæret på brugte bourgogne-pieces. Power kirsch og let oxidativt præg fra fadgæring og fadlagring, krydret – meunier-mesterens stil, Jerome Prevost-mindelser, stor og lige-i-fjæset-frugt og smagen er stærk, muskuløs og pågående. Meuniers virilitet er indfanget her og sættes fri i et udbrud. 93 point.” – René Langdahl

Ulysse Collin Les Maillons 2015-base

“Disgorged in March 2019 with 2.4 grams per liter dosage after 36 months sur lattes, the extraordinary NV Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons (2015) is based on the 2015 vintage with the addition of fully 60% reserve wines from 2014. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of honeycomb, minty yellow orchard fruit, dried white flowers and almond paste, it’s full-bodied, broad and vinous, with incredible depth and dimension at the core, a racy spine of tangy acidity that belies the base vintage, and a long, searingly intense finish. This is a remarkably complete and concentrated rendition of Les Maillons, but it’s also among the most elegant and vibrant that Olivier Collin has produced to date. While my expectation are always high when opening bottles from this producer, they were nonetheless transcended by this new release. 98 points.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Barrat-Masson La Grande Homée Rosé des Saignée 2018

Endnu ikke anmeldt – det får I til gengæld lov til på aftenen.

Ulysse Collin Rosé des Saignée Les Maillons 2017-base

“Given the challenges 2017 presented—in particular the presence of the Suzuki fruit fly, which produces volatile acidity when it attacks fruit—Collin opted for a shorter-than-usual maceration for his NV Extra-Brut Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons (2017), and the result is an unusually elegant, fine-boned rendition of this frequently powerful cuvée. Offering up aromas of white cherries, blood orange, rose petals and spices, it’s full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a layered core of fruit and a pretty pinpoint mousse. 94 points.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

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